7 week old fostered kittens waiting on their dinner being prepared. They had been ill with cat flu and were just starting to get their appetite back. Because of their condition I had to chop their food finely and then add water and their medication to it. Once they were old enough and healthy enough the kittens were eventually re-homed in pairs to two loving families. They were never purposely starved for our entertainment – Cats can be very impatient and demanding!

Even if you have had years of experience with adult cats, taking care of a kitten is a whole new world. Kittens eat differently, sleep differently, and need time to adjust to changes both inside their bodies and in the outside world. Learn about a kitten’s basic needs and how to help your kitten grow into a happy, healthy adult cat.

Make Your Home Kitten-Proof

What, exactly, does kitten-proofing entail? Particularly if you already have older cats, what more do you need to do?

For one thing, kittens are much more active and curious than older cats. Like human babies, they often satisfy their curiosity by chewing everything in site. For this reason, you should purchase all-natural cat litter and not the clumping clay variety that is commonly used with older cats.

Another element of kitten-proofing your home is giving the kitten a safe place to be. This need not be an entire room, but it does need to be quiet and closed off from other animals. After a few days, give the kitten and the other animals some closely supervised time to get acquainted. If your new kitten has not been to the vet, keep it quarantined from other animals until you can be certain he does not have any infectious diseases. Give the animals a few weeks to get used to each other and do not push too hard; before you know it, the safe room will be a thing of the past!

The First Visit to the Vet

The first visit to the vet should take place shortly after you have gotten your kitten, particularly if it was a stray and you do not know its medical history. This is particularly important if you have other household pets that could be infected if the kitten has any communicable diseases. Until you take the new kitten to the vet, you will need to keep him away from the other pets.

At the veterinarian’s office, your kitten will undergo a detailed physical exam. This will include looking at baby teeth to determine age, measuring temperature, palpating organs, listening to the heart, brushing fur for signs of fleas, and checking eyes and ears. After the physical examination is complete, the vet will perform several tests, such as:

Fecal float checks for worms

Blood Tests check for FeLV and FIV viruses

Depending on your kitten’s age when you first take her to the vet, she may be vaccinated. Vaccinations take place at 9 to 10 weeks of age. Kittens are given a booster shot at 12 and 14 weeks and possibly a Rabies vaccine, depending on local laws or if your cat is considered at risk.

Two procedures that may be taken care of at different times are spaying/neutering and declawing. Some vets prefer to spay/neuter at a younger age, as it may be better for the cat. You need to make a separate appointment for this. Unlike spaying and neutering, declawing is a more debatable procedure. You should aim to understand more about the benefits and disadvantages of this procedure before you make a final decision.

Social Growth

In his first month and a half of growth, a new kitten experiences tremendous changes. Typically, new cat owners will not bring home a kitten until week 6, when it has been weaned off its mother’s milk. For this reason, typically new kitten owners will be more involved in the social growth than physical growth.

If the mother was comfortable with humans, the kittens will usually learn that behavior and learn to socialize easily with people. However, if your kitten has not become accustomed to being handled by humans by the age of six weeks, it will be difficult to train this behavior later, and the cat may always be somewhat more skittish than others.

Be sure to teach your kitten at a young age that hands are not toys, they feed, pet and hold the kittens.

Introducing Canned Food

Kittens need many more nutrients than adult cats. However; with smaller stomachs they must each more regularly. A six-week-old kitten should have four daily feedings until he reaches 12 weeks of age. From 12 weeks to six months, she can take three daily feedings. After that point, feed your kitten once daily, like other adult cats.

When choosing food, keep your kitten’s health top priority. Do not feed your kitten:

table scraps or milk

dog food

adult cat food

All of these may be easy options for you, the pet owner, but the kitten will not receive the nutrients she needs. Instead, feed her a well-balanced diet of food made specifically for developing kittens. Begin with canned food, which is more calorie-laden for energetic kittens. Later on, you can start supplementing with dry food.

Now that you have learned the basics of kitten care, bring home your new kitten and enjoy the time you spend together. She will be an adult cat before you know it!

“Why do some pet foods have puppy food (or kitten food) and others do not? Shouldn’t I give my new pup – puppy food?”

Before I answer that question – I need to share a little pet food history. Back in the early days of commercial pet food, veterinarians noticed that when puppies were fed the same commercial food that the adult dogs were eating – they did not grow and thrive the way they should. Back then, commercial dog foods and cat foods contained very little quality meat – the protein mostly came from grains the food contained. It was determined that puppies and kittens need a higher protein food in order to develop properly. This change was important, however the bad news is that the protein was not required to come from meat sources – the majority came from inferior grain sources. The new requirements just required a higher percentage of protein for a growth food – a puppy food or a kitten food – there were no specifications as to where the protein came from (still holds true today).

Today, AAFCO has set standards for puppy foods to be a minimum of 22% protein (adult dog food minimum 18% protein), standards for kitten food must be a minimum of 30% protein (adult cat food 26% minimal protein). Besides a few other very insignificant differences – the amount of protein is the only difference between an adult dog food or an adult cat food to a puppy food or kitten food.

So, to answer the question above – you can feed a puppy food or kitten food, but you don’t have to if you are feeding the right food! Remember, except for percentage of protein, there are no significant differences in an adult pet food to kitten or puppy food.

Many pet food lines have protein percentages above the minimal requirements for puppies and kittens. Some pet food formulators have determined in their research that 18% protein for adult dogs and 26% protein for adult cats is not optimal – so they formulate their foods with higher protein levels than the required minimal. In other words – many adult foods meet the same nutritional requirements for puppies and kittens even though they are not labeled specifically as puppy food or kitten food. As an example…ABC Chicken & Rice Puppy Food has a protein percentage of 23% and ABC Chicken Kitten Food has a protein percentage of 32% – but XYZ Chicken & Rice Dog food has a protein percentage of 25% and XYZ Chicken Cat Food as a protein percentage of 35%. Both ABC brands and XYZ brands meet the required protein levels for puppy or kitten foods as well as adult dog and adult cat food. So, a puppy owner or a kitten owner could feed their new baby the XYZ pet food – even though it is not labeled specifically for puppies or kittens.

Before I go any further – I have to mention a little about canned pet foods. ANY canned or pouched pet food (a moist pet food) contains at least 70% to 85% moisture. Protein percentages in canned pet foods vary from 7% to 11% – far below the minimal requirements necessary for adult dogs and cats as well as kittens and puppies. Pet owners do not want to feed solely a canned or pouched pet food to adult dogs and cats or puppies and kittens. They simply do not provide the necessary nutrition. If you want to feed a canned pet food, feed it WITH a quality dry food. Maybe soft for breakfast and kibble for dinner.

OK, back to puppy foods and kitten foods…a common question I hear on this subject is…’Is it ok for my adult dog (or cat) to be eating a food that has such a high protein percentage?’ Many pet owners – after hearing my explanation of puppy foods and kitten foods, are then concerned about feeding an adult dog or cat a pet food that has a higher percentage of protein. The best way I can ease those concerns is from sharing the words of many pet nutrition experts. As a dog or cat goes from being a puppy or kitten, to a young adult, to a mature adult, to a senior pet – their body continually produces new cells, new tissue, and new muscle – the entire process feeds off of protein. So the pet continues to need a quality protein source throughout its entire life. (There are exceptions for senior pets and pets with illnesses – this discussion is strictly for healthy animals – consult your veterinarian if you have any questions.) Science – not speculation – has determined that a higher protein level benefits young dogs and cats as well as adult pets. I have reviewed some dog and cat foods in Petsumer Report that have protein levels as high as 50%! I’m not so confident that 50% protein in a dog food or cat food is optimal for house pets (more for a working dog – example being a working cattle dog tending to a herd) – the point is that higher protein level pet foods are out there, and not all of them are labeled as puppy food or kitten food.

The thing that makes most pet owners choose a puppy food or kitten food is the marketing. Those television commercials that show adorable puppies and kittens stating this food ‘meets the unique needs’ or ‘specially formulated’ or ‘Extra Nutrition’ or ‘developed to meet the higher energy needs’ and so forth have lured pet owners into firm beliefs that their puppy or kitten has to have a puppy food or kitten food. The cute little faces along with the expertly researched tag lines – have helped to grow the puppy food and kitten food business into phenomenal numbers. Part of the marketing strategy is to get puppy owners hooked into a particular emotional commitment to the manufacturer through a puppy or kitten food. If you start off with ABC puppy food – the marketing goal is for you to stay loyal to that company later with ABC adult dog food. The pet food manufacturers have become SO successful at this marketing technique – several manufacturers that make a quality maintenance pet food (not a specific puppy food or kitten food) have been forced to package their food in a puppy or kitten format.

I am not saying that puppy foods and kitten foods are bad – it still boils down to ingredients in the pet food. What I am saying is that it is not a requirement to feed a puppy or kitten specifically a puppy food or a kitten food. As long as you provide them with a quality pet food that meets the protein percentage they need – you are fine.

Always, always, always – consult your veterinarian.

And one more quick bit of information – I wish I could tell you that when you find a good puppy food or kitten food, with quality human grade US ingredients, and added health bonuses such as chelated or proteinated minerals and probiotics – that you can stick with that same manufacturer for your adult pet food and treats…but that is not always the case. Actually it is more just the opposite. From reviewing many lines of pet food and pet treats from one manufacturer for Petsumer Report, I have found that many pet food manufacturers make some pet foods that have quality human grade ingredients and then their pet treats are close to junk food. While others might have one or two varieties of pet food that are good, and have several more varieties that I would never recommend a pet owner to feed. It’s just not that easy. You must look at the ingredients, ask the questions, and look at the Guaranteed Analysis and Best By Date on everything.

Wishing you and your pet the best.

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So you have decided to add a kitten to your household. Some basics of kitten care include preparing your home for the kitten, feeding and daily care, discovering things around the house that may be harmful to your new kitten, and responsible pet ownership.

An important part of bringing home a kitten is preparing your home for the kitten. Have a good look around your house and “cat-proof” it. Keep in mind that anything that dangles (such as lamp cords, curtains, etc.) are an extreme temptation for a mischievous kitten. Kittens just love to venture out, hide, as well as chew and “paw” things. Remember this when adjusting the items in your house.

Feeding and daily care of a kitten involve just four items: a place for the kitten to sleep, fresh food and water, a litter box with litter and a scratching pad or post. Kittens love toys, too, so be sure to have plenty on hand when your kitten joins the family. Several commercial brands of food specifically designed for kittens are available. Ask your veterinarian for recommendations if you are unsure when feeding a kitten.

Certain household plants and chemicals are poisonous to kittens and cats in general. For example, antifreeze is poisonous to both cats and dogs. Research either by books, internet, or a call to the vet to find out about these items and substances so that you never put your furry friend in danger.

Responsible pet ownership includes veterinary care for a kitten. Be sure to have your kitten examined by your vet as soon as possible. Your kitten needs a series of vaccinations to ensure a happy, healthy and long life. Be sure to stay current with their shots. Also, many communities require that you register your pet with the local authorities. Your vet will be able to provide more information.

Owning a cat is sure to be a wonderful experience, and with the proper care, the bond between you and your kitten can be a fast and infinite one.